k is for KATMAI

When you have a National Park that requires training in “Bear Etiquette” before you’re allowed to visit, you know things are getting serious…

My mother and I did a two week road trip around parts of Alaska in September of 2016. And, one of the places I knew I had to visit was Katmai National Park. We stayed in Homer, Alaska, and I was able to charter a plane for the day that took me to Lake Clark NP and Katmai NP plus was able to fly me over the “Valley of 10,000 Smokes.”

Travel in these parts is very weather dependent. I was cancelled on the day before, and this morning we delayed leaving until the weather cleared up. I had given myself a three day buffer, so I was lucky to have been able to get out that day. As you can see, it was still pretty overcast and we did get a few showers during the day, but for the most part, it was a nice brisk fall day.

I’ve written before about childhood memories of looking at National Geographic and Encyclopedia Britannica and being fascinated by the pictures and trying to imagine what it would be like to travel to these places. At Katmai I was living another of my dreams. Flying over small islands like the photo on the left I saw a bear running beneath me and splashing into the waters. And standing on the deck at the bear observation area at Brooks Falls I was standing in the middle of my own Nat Geo documentary. But first, I had to get there…

That’s a grizzly front paw on my hand, and I can attest that it covered my entire hand and most of the way down my wrist. And those claws… yikes! Thus, the 15 minute class where I learned to make a lot of noise (I did have a “bear bell” on my day pack but around here they’re jokingly called “bear dinner bells”), walk with others, don’t carry food and stand my ground. Yeah… At the end of the class you receive your Katmai Bear Etiquette pin which you have to wear around the park, and it lets the bears know you’re on to them and to leave you alone… well, not really but that’s what I told myself since I found myself alone on the half mile walk to the viewing area.

Talk about lack of situational awareness… Alaska is just too beautiful. The majestic mountains… the verdant forest around you just changing to ambers and reds as fall approached… the quiet hum of the river… mhmm… go ahead and sneak up on me Mr. Bear… Luckily, my “Spidey-senses” did not pick up on anything around me, and I briskly made my way to the viewing platform my bear bell jingling. And, it was worth the fears and the delays and the travel…

These are just a few of the dozens of photos I took that afternoon. I could have stood at the observation platform for hours, but I had a plane to catch, and so much more to see that day. I hope to go back one day when I’m not on such a time crunch. Maybe even spend a couple of days at the cabins. But, I am so blessed to have been able to spend this time here and live out another childhood dream.

By the way, the bear that looks hunched over to the right of the photo is Otis, Bear #480. He’s the oldest known bear at Katmai, aged approximately 25 – 27 years old. Most grizzley bears only live to about 20 so he’s pretty old. He’s got quite the following online and has won the yearly “Fat Bear” competition three times as the bears eat as much as they can to plump up before going into hibernation.

While I was there, a momma bear and her two cubs were the talk of the camp. I didn’t get a chance to see them, but one of the web trail cams did pick them up the following morning. This is why I would love to come and stay to give myself more time to see images like this. I know exactly where this was shot, and it would have been amazing to see this live. Sigh, one day…